I’m not sure if I’ve mentioned I’m allergic to soy. Which is ironic, given the title of this blog and how much Japanese food depends on it. I’m mostly sensitive to tofu and miso, so I almost never make misoshiru. It pains me because I loved my grandmother’s misoshiru growing up! Instead, I’ve been making a type of sumashijiru (clear soup) with 3 types of mushrooms: enoki, shimeji, and shiitake.
The flavors are subtle but intensely earthy, as you can imagine. Compared to misoshiru, which is often made really salty in some restaurants, this soup is light. The slightly smoky dashi and richness of the mushrooms makes you want to hover over it and inhale all of its goodness.
Mushroom Soup | きのこ汁
Adapted from 和食の基本
Makes 4 servings
According to the book, don’t wash the mushrooms because this removes their fragrance.
1/2 pack enoki, ends trimmed and separated into small bunches by hand
4 fresh shiitake, stem removed and sliced thinly
1/2 pack shimeji, end trimmed and separated by hand
1 piece aburaage
3 1/4 cups (800ml) dashi
1 Tbsp sake
1 Tbsp shoyu
1 1/2 tsp mirin
Boil the aburaage for a minute or so to remove the excess oil. Drain and when cool enough to handle, cut in half. Slice each half section crosswise into medium strips.
Heat the dashi and aburaage in a medium pot over medium-high heat. Once it comes to a boil, add the shiitake and shimeji. Remove any impurities that rise to the surface. You can do this by using a small mesh strainer or dabbing the surface with a paper towel.
Add the salt, sake, shoyu, and mirin. Taste and adjust seasonings accordingly. Add the enoki and once it comes back to a boil, it’s done.